NANJINGNOW

When you arrive at Confucius Temple 夫子庙 [fu4zi3miao4], you begin to ask where the temple is. It’s like you arrive at NYC’s Times Square to search frantically for the ‘square.’ There are a couple of gates that indicate an entrance into the Fuzimiao area. Below is one of them during the day…

The focus of the Fuzimiao area is the part of Qinhuai River 秦淮河 [qin2huai2he2] that runs through it. According to one source, this river separates the temple side from the side where the brothels once stood…

Brothels? Yes. According to the horses’ mouth, the area around the temple had always been once of major activity. As with most places of major import in antiquity, Fuzimiao was a marketplace of lurve. The more affluent lurve-givers would give them in brothels that lay on the opposite bank from the temple proper. As for those without a roof to house the bed, they worked from boats cruising the river in search of willing prey.

That is one reason why it is common for people to visit Fuzimiao at night.

At night is also when Fuzimiao’s modern character comes to life. Come before ten at night to enjoy the fun of shopping and bargaining. Makeshift stalls will be open, with vendors selling souvenirs, DVDs, cushion covers, etc. There will also be shops open selling what you can easily find in the Xinjiekou area, like Lining shoes, Jeanwest clothes etc. And of course, there is our beloved McDonalds.

To make sense of Fuzimiao amid this commercial chaos, first find the river. You will see a well-lit pair of dragons along the canal wall. This is the side of the river is where the brothels used to be. Now, the buildings there house restaurants, behind which are street vendors lining a back street.

If you’re looking at the dragon pair, then you’re on the side of the river where the temple is. In front of you are boats that will take you on a river cruise. Behind you is the temple. It was historically an important place for the study of Confucian teachings, but is today overshadowed by furor of marketplace practicality.

Remember, come here before 10pm, and give yourself an hour at least to stroll the streets, more if you want to shop!

Another option for shopping would be Hunan Road.