NANJINGNOW

As I write this, I look at my extremely convenient miniature weather forecast that is built into my edition of Firefox. It informs me that at the present time, which is about two in the afternoon on a Thursday, Nanjing’s temperature is well above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, which I suppose is somewhere above 33 degrees Celsius. It will stay this way all week, except for those occasional massive thunderstorms which always seem to hit whenever I leave work. More than likely, it will stay this way for the rest of the month, and probably well into August as well. My point is: it’s incredibly hot, and you probably hate it as much as I do. The real question is; what can you do instead of staying inside all day under the air conditioner, pondering why the hell you are in such a hot place at the hottest time of year? Not to worry, once again I humbly present my opinions for the best ways to stay cool and occupied in the furnace that is Nanjing.

It may sound suicidal, or at least very unpleasant, but walking around exploring is still a very good way to keep occupied, and find some interesting places. There a few things to keep in mind, though. It is hot all the time, but there are certainly some times which are more tolerable than others. The earlier morning is probably the best time to go out, even if it might not immediately feel that way. Mornings are more humid, but the temperature is lower. This might be healthier than going out in the early evening, when it is dryer but hotter. (For more information on why this is, read this very informative article in the New York Times. Hey, if it works in New York, why not Nanjing?) As always, remember to drink plenty of water and get inside if you start to feel really exhausted.

However, you probably know all that already. But where is there that is interesting enough to prompt you to torture yourself with the Nanjing heat and constant possibility of monsoon like thunderstorms? The first and easiest option is Xinjiekou for a number of reasons. First, you can walk around the vast majority of Xinjiekou and never be forced to actually go outside. The Metro station very conveniently connects all the major shopping centers and malls, and many other places are reachable by walking through Fashion Lady. Aside from the giant glass conical entrance, there are smaller entrances to Fashion Lady in almost every corner of Xinjiekou. Fashion Lady also connects directly to the Metro Station. Either way, a walk around Xinjiekou will nicely insulate you from direct sunlight, heat, humidity, mosquitoes, and all the other threats of Nanjing summer.

Highlights of Xinjiekou include: Deji Plaza (德基广场, de2ji1 guang3chang3); the mall that makes you feel just like you are anywhere but Nanjing. Go there for the extremely upper class shopping, and if you find anything there that costs under several hundred RMB (at least), please post a message saying where you bought it. The other major malls in the area are entertaining, but none really match the pure Western-ness of Deji. Fashion Lady is probably the most surreal place in Xinjiekoue, since it really is an underground shopping mall with hundreds of tiny stores buying almost every kind of clothing imaginable, as well as plenty of other stuff. If you can tolerate walking around what can pass for a William Gibson novel, Fashion Lady may be the place for you. At least go there to see how massively strange it can get down there.

For those who actually like to see the sky, strolling around Fuzimiao is an interesting thing to do either in the day or night. (Yes, I know that I just told you that going out in the morning is healthier, but really, who wants to stay indoors all the time during the somewhat comfortable evenings?) Of course, Fuzimiao has already been nicely detailed on this webpage, so there is not much more that I can say in terms of what to actually see there.

In terms of not being consumed by heat, I can recommend a number of things. First, ice cream is delicious and makes you at least ‘feel’ cooler. Ice cream is easily purchased on the cheap from almost any Suguo, corner store, bodega, and any number of other establishments that have invested in a freezer. For the cheap stuff, expect to pay no more than four to five RMB for a good ice cream bar. Try the Magnum. It’s tasty and has a hysterical name. Chinese frozen treats not your thing? In that case, you might want to stop by the Häagen Dazs, located next to Burger King, near the Zhuanyuanlou Hotel (状元楼宾馆, zhuan4yuan2lou2 bin1guan3). However, do not go in expecting to pay less than five RMB for a scoop. Prices are quite high; ranging up to fifty kuai for various items. Then again, if you really want some quality relief in the form of cool, melty, delicious imported ice cream, there are not many other places to go. (Keep in mind, there is also a Häagen Dazs in Xinjiekou. Same ice cream, same prices, different location.)

Fuzimiao (and all of Nanjing for that matter) has a large number of small stands that serve up beverages, as well. These range from bubble tea (珍珠奶茶, zhen1zhu1 nai3cha2) to a wide selection of fruit juices (果汁, guo3zhi1) and frozen drinks. Generally, at this time of year bubble tea is served ice cold, and will usually cost you five to six RMB for a large cup. Juice stands are not as prolific as bubble tea vendors, but finding one is definitely worth the effort. Prices for juice are generally the same as the price for tea. With both juice and tea, there are a number of flavors that may first appear daunting to people without an extensive knowledge of Chinese. For tea, in most cases it is best to go with 原味 (yuan2 wei4) for that milky, semi sweet (and sometimes too sweet) flavor. Good choices for juice include the standard orange (橙汁, cheng2zhi1) and the less standard pineapple (菠萝汁, bo1luo2zhi1). Experimentation is good in this area to find out what you like. If all else fails, point to a random flavor and see what you get.

If you have read this far, you might be thinking to yourself, “Great. My only option for the summer is to walk around Fuzimiao eating ice cream and drinking orange juice. Thanks a lot J.R.” Well, there are certainly other options for the weather weary Nanjing-er. If you want to walk around Xinjiekou for the convenience and air conditioned environment, walk around Fuzimiao for the shopping and hectic, high energy environment, then you may want to seriously consider a morning/evening stroll through (not around) Xuanwu Lake. The middle of the lake has a series of islands connected by a series of bridges. Entrances to this area are conveniently located around Jiming Si, Xuanwu Men, and the Sun Palace. Walking around the lake is not only tranquil, but also cooler than most other parts of Nanjing. Think physics; water absorbs heat while earth reflects it. Therefore, ‘voila’, instantly cooler weather.

Here’s an abridged account of Xuanwu Lake. First, keep in mind that unlike the perimeter of the lake, this park is not free. There is a ticket gate at each entrance, and tickets cost 20 RMB. The money is well spent, as there are various things to see and do, such as a number of pagodas, temples, an aviary, and a sort of amphitheater at the side of the lake. The best time to visit is the early evening, as the park closes at 9:30 pm. Going in the evening provides you with a number of advantages; it is not too hot, on a clear day you can see a very nice view of the train station, the Gulou area, the Purple Mountain, and Hunan Lu from across the lake, and many pagodas and statues are lit up. However, beware of mosquitoes and other insects; bringing repellant is almost a necessity. Also, remember to bring a bottle of water, as there are not very many places to buy cool drinks once inside the park. Overall, if you want a nice evening stroll, there are very few places in the city which are better to go than this park.

The Last Thing You Need to Know: Never fear, it is still possible to have a good walk in the Nanjing heat. Just make sure you are well prepared wherever you are going. Xinjiekou is definitely the easiest place to explore, but not everyone is interested in malls and Fashion Lady. Fuzimiao is interesting, but be sure you can handle the heat. Finally, Xuanwu Lake is very serene, but make sure you can put up with the mosquitoes.

- J.R. On The Scene - 20th Jul 2008